Make Up and Kiss

Beautifully Dramatic

2011-10-21T11:17:00.000-04:00

My friend Kaleigh has always had a flair for the dramatic. She relates anecdotes with theatrical storytelling, her home is warm and cozy with bright pops of color, and she her sharp wit is the base of her excellent sense of humor. She brought that sense of drama into her wedding day flawlessly. Set in an art gallery on the water front, theater lights focused on depression glass in amber, green, and blue to create a visually stunning backdrop for her big day. Orange, green, and blue flowers popped in their milk glass vases. She captured antebellum drama in her dress, and carried a breathtaking (and carefully handcrafted) broach bouquet. It was beautiful.

Look at that dress. Just...wow!

It was my job to figure out how to bring that sense of drama into her wedding day look. She has gorgeous eyes, so we decided to play those up, and go very neutral with everything else. She wanted smoky eyes, but I didn't want to go the predictable route and use blacks or browns to create the smoke. I wanted to so something unexpected, so I headed to Sephora to start looking at color possibilities. I wanted to stay in her color palate, and was focused on the blues and greens. (Kaleigh has very pink undertones in her skin so I immediately discounted the orange as an eye color contender.) I found a smoky eye shadow collection by Too Faced which presented a lot of opportunities to create something fantastic. Using the green and blue from the fashion smoke, the neutral from the day smoke, and the black from the classic smoke, I created a stunning colored smoky eye that matched her color scheme, brought in the drama, and brought out her gorgeous green eyes.

Kaleigh has great skin, and she got married on the hottest day of the year (110 in the shade literally!) so I wanted to keep her foundation light. I used just a touch of concealer under her eyes and lightly buffed Stila pressed powder all over her face. Pressed powder is a great alternative to traditional foundation on hot days. It acts as a base for make up, and evens out skin tones without being heavy, so you don't have to worry about it sweating or running off. I started with Urban Decay Eyeshadow Primer Potion, covering her entire eyelid. With a wide eye shadow brush, I swept the neutral shade across her entire eyelid from brow to lash line. Taking a smoky eye brush I dotted the blue into the outer corner of her lid up to the crease in a small circular motion. I extended the blue to the center of both her lid and crease, using the brush on her crease, and finger-blending on the lid to make a softer shade. Then I took the green with the same type of brush, and applied it from the inner corner to the center of her lid and crease. I used my finger to blend the green and blue together at the center, and then took a mid-sized brush to apply a very light layer of the green across her entire lid from crease to lash line. I also lined the inner corner of her top and bottom lid with the green. The rest of her eye was lined with the gunmetal color to add a bit of definition. I filled in and defined her brows with a blonde eyebrow gel, and completed her eyes by curling her lashes and applying two coats of waterproof mascara.

To create the neutral face while still giving her some definition I chose to use a luminescent powder instead of a blush. Using an angled blush brush, I swept the powder along the underside of her cheek bones and on the underside of her jaw line.

To create Kaleigh's nude lip I had to pull out a little trick. As I mentioned before, Kaleigh has very pink undertones, and these are especially visible in her lips. Every lipstick she puts on either looks much darker or much brighter than you anticipate, so I had to neutralize those undertones. Using a lip brush and concealer, I lined her lips and then filled them in. This made her lips the same color as her skin, so we could apply lipstick to get the correct color. I lined her lips with a clear lip liner, and then applied Urban Decay Lipstick in "nude" to give her the defined nude lip she wanted. I set her make up with a light once-over of powder, and then set it with a light spray of aerosol hairspray to be extra safe. Helpful Hint: A quick spray of aerosol hairspray (with eyes closed, and from about a foot away) will give your make up extra staying power for those truly special occasions and/or truly hot days. She looked dramatic and beautiful, the perfect centerpiece of a stunning wedding.

Old Hollywood Glam

2011-09-26T14:23:00.000-04:00

When I started planning my wedding, one thing I dreaded was figuring out what to do with my makeup. I've done so many looks and expiramented with so many color combinations, the task of picking my favorite one was a bit daunting. Then I found my dress and it just screamed "Old Hollywood!" which left me with the even more daunting task of finding the perfect red lipstick (which is another story for another time). Eventually I did just that, along with finding the rest to go along with it, and turned myself into a hollywood glam bride.

(Okay, old hollywood glam on a motorcycle, but even Marilyn Monroe rode a motorcycle.)

So, what goes into this classic look? Similar to the natural look, I started with concealer and foundation, and set the foundation with Stila pressed powder. (Seriously, this is a must-have product.) From there, I was absolutely thrilled to find Too Faced Natural Eye Neutral shadow collection. Sweeping "heaven" across the entire eye from browbone to lash line, I used "honeypot" in the middle third of eyelid from the crease to lash line, and then "push up" on the outer third (outer corner) of my eyelid. Taking a damp flat eyeliner brush I lined my eyes with "sexpresso" winging the eyeliner at the outer corner of my eye to create that signature '40's look. (What I love about this shadow collection is that I could play with different combinations to find the right one for the look I was trying to create. Because the collection is so neutral it looks good on everyone, and is great for creating different looks. But I digress...) I then used a very pale bronzer to accentuate my cheek bones and along the underside of my jaw. (I have a round face, so this helps to create a more oval shape.) Then I moved onto the lip.

One of the tricky things about red lipstick is how to make it stay all day without constantly reapplying. Helpful hint: concealer. Brush concealer onto your lips to neutralize your lip color and create a base for the lipstick. Lip liner is also key to keeping lipstick in it's place. This clear lip liner is one of my favorite finds ever. It can be used with any color of lipstick, and I was thrilled to see that kept its promise of preventhing feathering. (Very important when working with red!) Since my wedding I've actually run out of, and replaced, this lip liner three times. I used a medium width lip brush to apply NARS Red Lizard, my chosen red, and set it by brushing my stila pressed powder lightly over top with a small foundation brush. Voila! Instant old hollywood glam.

Naturally Glowing

2011-09-24T10:22:00.003-04:00

When my dear friend Kate told me she was getting married and asked me to be a bridesmaid I immediately knew three things. 1. This guy must be awesome. 2. It would be a beautiful wedding). 3. She was going to have very specific ideas of how she wanted to look. Not only does Kate have an awesome sense of style (vintage meets classic), but she’s also both an architect student and a graphic designer. She has a very good understanding of how shape and color come together to create a whole package. I also knew that she wasn’t really a makeup girl so I anticipated what she confirmed: she wanted to look naturally glowing and beautiful. And she did.

Looks easy right? Some lip gloss and eyeliner and she’s done. Not…so much. There’s a lot of work that goes into creating that enhanced natural beauty that a lot of brides want. Of course, Kate was glowing and giddy almost that entire day, so it was delightful to enhance what she was already exuding. But easy?

Let's see how "easy" it was.

A. Concealer
Every girl knows you have to start with concealer. Under eye circles and blemishes will disappear under the right shade. For a really polished, natural look you’ll also want to apply concealer at the corners of your nose where it meets your cheeks. I prefer Laura Mercier concealer. It gives the right amount of coverage without caking, creasing, or clumping.
B. Foundation
Because Kate is not really a makeup girl the idea of foundation scared her a little. Because she has very fair skin a lot of foundations look unnatural or make her look like she spray tanned. I definitely wanted to avoid that, but I also wanted to avoid her looking washed out in her wedding photos.Tinted moisturizer to the rescue! It gives the overall coverage and blending you want without looking made-up. I followed that up with Stila pressed powder to set the foundation.
C. Brows
Kate has great brows naturally, so I used a clear brow gel to set them and left them at that.
D. Eye shadow
This was a discussion. At the time she got married glittery eye shadow was everywhere. It was also not what she wanted. So we went on the hunt for a shadow that would let her eyes sparkle without actually sparkling. Eventually we found vanilla nut and cafe au lait. I used vanilla nut over the entire eyelid and on the brow bone to highlight her eyes. Café au lait was brushed lightly into the crease and on the outer corners of her eyes to make her blue eyes really pop. I also used it as a liner on her lower lid. With a very fine straight brush, I lightly lined under her lower lashes to give natural definition without drama.
E. Eyeliner and Mascara
I love pot eyeliners. They go on smoothly and easily, creating an even line. Taking a damp flat eyeliner brush I used a charcoal pot eyeliner to create a smooth, fine line inside the upper lash line. It takes a steady hand, but it creates a beautiful, natural definition. Then I curled her lashes and used a waterproof mascara. Always, always, always use a waterproof mascara on emotional days.
F. Blush
To get that “blushing bride” look, I used a multi-color blush block on the apples of her cheeks and along her cheek bones. I also used this along her temples and down the bridge of her nose to shape the contours of her face.
G. Lips
One thing Kate said to me was that she didn’t want to be constantly reapplying lipstick throughout the day, but she also didn’t want her lips to feel dried out. That’s a tall order for a lipstick to fill. So, I didn’t use one. I found a cream lip stain in “shy pink” that was just a shade darker than her lips natural color. Using a lip brush, I lined her lips with it, and after that had set, filled them in with the same color. I’ve gone back to this several times since then, because it actually did stay all day without making her reach for chapstick.
H. Highlighting
The final step was to use a highlighter to bring a light, dewy touch to her face. Using a powder highlighter, I highlighted the bridge of her nose, temples, cheekbones, and immediately under her eyebrows.
So a lot went into her naturally glowing look that day, and she did look stunning. Now, I wouldn’t suggest someone do that every day, but a lot of this can translate into an every day look. By taking the moisturizer, eye shadow, and lips Kate has an every day look that’s quick and brings out her natural beauty.

Bridal Beauty

2011-09-22T15:40:00.000-04:00

One of the many things I love about being a twentysomething? I’ve had a lot of occasions to celebrate. From graduations to first jobs, buying a first house to getting married, I’ve had the great fortune to celebrate huge events in my life and the lives of my friends and family. Of all of these, I think weddings may be my favorite. No, not because of the dresses or the flowers or really any of the traditional reasons girls seem to love weddings. I love them because I’ve had the chance to help some of my dearest friends feel like the most beautiful brides they could be.

Yes, I’m talking about bridal makeup. Every woman has a picture of how she wants to look on her wedding day, and they’re not all the same anymore. Gone are the days of Bridal Beauty Rules. Today’s brides have options as endless as their imaginations. I’ve had the pleasure of doing wedding day makeup that runs the gamut from natural beauty to full on drama, and every time it’s different and exciting. I’ve picked out three of my favorite looks to highlight over the next couple of posts, including how to recreate the look and make it work for you.

Remember, the posibilities are endless so if you see something that inspires you, go with it.

Statement Lips

2011-05-04T15:13:00.001-04:00

This season is all about color, and not just the previously mentioned corals. It’s about any color you’re brave enough to slip into. Color is everywhere this season and the bolder the color, the better. What do I love about statement lips? You can go totally glam or very low maintenance and still look like you rule the world.

A bright bold color paired with neutral eye shadow, the palest of blushes, and a little mascara works wonders. You’ll simultaneously look innocent and enticing. This look creates the illusion of larger eyes while making your lips brighter and more luscious.

The best part? It’s simple and super-quick. The statement lip has become my go-to look on those grey rainy mornings when I just can’t seem to get myself motivated. The bright color is an instant mood booster. And when I want to add just a little glam on the eyes, I swap out my matte natural color for a slightly shimmery version of the same. The statement lip also looks amazing with dramatic eyes. Pair it with smoky eyes in compatible colors or stunning cat-eye liner to give the look instant glam

Worried about the color being high maintenance? Go for a lipstain instead of a lipstick. I’ve been using Laura Mercier stains for a few years now, and they work great. They don’t leave your lips feeling dry or irritated and come in some great colors. Another great option is Cover Girl’s new Outlast All-Day Lipcolor. The color choices are awesome, and it looks the same at 7:00pm as it does when I apply it at 7:00am which makes it a great low maintenance option. So let your lips brighten up your day, and the days of people you flash your smile at.

xoxo,

First Aid

2011-04-30T14:06:00.001-04:00

How many lipsticks do you have in your purse right now? Tubes of mascara? If you dig deep enough you might even be able to find an eye liner pencil down there somewhere. That’s because we’re all guilty of it: slapping whatever makeup we can pull out of our Mary Poppins bag on while on the go. The problem is that whatever we can find usually doesn’t match whatever else we can find, which usually doesn’t look great with our outfit. That’s why I always carry a facial first aid kit.

The “first aid kit” should be small enough to fit in your everyday purse, and yet still have the basics you need to feel confident and put together. It can be as low or high maintenance as you feel you could be comfortable in, and it shouldn’t cost a lot to put together. For example, mine contains a concealer, foundation, duo eyeshadow pot in neutral colors, an eyeliner pencil, mascara, and blush. (Since I always carry both chapstick and lip gloss I decided for skip the lipstick.) The best part? It cost me around $12.00!

Elf cosmetics (short for eyes lips face) is a great place to get fairly decent makeup at a very low cost. Most of their makeup costs as little as $1.00 per item, with their mineral and studio lines averaging more around $3.00. Don’t have time to sift through their site to find stuff for your first aid kit? Check out their get the look tool for a quick entire look purchase. Elf is also great for purchasing bold or new colors you might not be brave enough to try at designer prices. So check it out, put together your own kit, and stop settling for whatever makeup dregs have settled at the bottom of your tote bag.

Kissable Coral

2011-04-28T16:48:00.002-04:00

April showers bring May flowers, and May flowers bring beautiful pops of color. I’ve always said nothing says Spring like the perfect coral lipstick, and this season coral is back with a pop. Coral can brighten up your face, your smile, and your every day look. Swap out your neutral shade of lipstick for a coral and see how much brighter your standard look becomes. The variety of hues means you can be understated or dramatic, and there is a shade out there for everyone. So how do you choose? Like any shade, you should find what’s best for your skin tone. I have pink undertones to my skin, so I chose a coral with a blue base. If you have blue undertones you’ll want to find a coral with pink or orange undertones. If you have olive or darker skin, pick a bright coral and rock it.
Most girls shy away from coral because they don’t know what to pair it with. Generally you’ll want to go with a peach or coral based blush for the cheeks. I personally like Too Faced peach leopard brightening and bronzer. It looks great on everyone and gives you a beautiful glow that makes the coral just shine. But what to do with your eyes?
There are three looks I love to use when wearing coral. The first is a natural but slightly shimmery eye. Take a pale pink or champagne across the brow bone, a shimmery bronze or gold on the eyelid, and a dark brown in the crease and outer eye. Add a brown eyeliner at the upper lash line, and some some mascara and you’ve created an understated eye that’s still catching while complimenting your lips.

*both Hailey and Lauren rocked this particular look on American Idol last night
A second choice is a smoky eye. Personally, I like to use grays and silvers when doing smoky eyes with coral, but you can also use golds, bronzes, or a traditional smoky eye. They’ll all have a dramatic effect and make your best features shine.

This spring is all about color, so the third option is also my favorite right now. Using a teal on my eyelid and and dark matte brown in the crease, I create just a little pop of color on my eyes that compliments the coral beautifully.

Three great ways to embrace this fabulous shade of Spring!

Spring Cleaning

2011-04-25T20:10:00.001-04:00

About this time every year we start to clean – obsessively. We hand scrub all those dishes which normally get plopped into the dishwasher, steam the carpets, wash the blinds, and hand the men in our life a honey-do list about a mile long. If you’re as obsessive as I am, you even go through your closet and get rid of all those holy jeans, old cardigans, and talking shoes. So why do you still have that mint green eye shadow you bought for Halloween three years ago? Seriously, when was the last time you took spring cleaning to your makeup bag? Since over 65% of us are running around wearing expired products, I’m guessing it’s been a while. The problem is that most cosmetics don’t have a “best if used by” date stamped on them. We have to know what we’re looking for, and sometimes we have to be willing to sacrifice our favorite shades. We also have to know the expiration dates or tell-tale signs that something’s gone wrong. Here are the basic guidelines* I use to keep in mind.

Mascara: 3 to 6
Lipstick: 12 to 18 months
Foundation: 1 year
Cream Shadows: 12 to 18 months
Powders and Shadows: 2 years
Eye and Lip Liners: up to 1 year
Nail Polish: 1 to 2 years

*by storing your makeup in a temperature controlled room, you’ll increase it’s shelf life by about 3 months!

Can’t remember when you bought it? That’s alright, because most makeup lets us know when it’s turned on us. The two easiest ones to tell are mascara and lipstick, so let’s start with those.

Mascara is very fickle, so it’s easy to know when it goes bad. Open your bottle and sniff the applicator. That sharp, pungent odor is going to great lengths to let you know it’s time for a new tube. Lipsticks are similar – they also have a change of scent. It won’t be as strong or obvious as the change in mascara, but it should be noticeable. If you’re still not sure, apply it and watch the reaction. Lipstick that’s gone bad will bubble or ball up on your lips almost immediately. Don’t freak out. That’s what happens the oils in the lipstick separating from the other elements, and a good sign to you that it has got to go.

Have you ever pulled out your favorite shade of nail polish only to have it be thick and clumpy when it goes on your nail? As much as you may love old faithful, that’s your sign it’s time to let it go. Foundations and cream shadows/blushes do the same thing. They’re difficult to mix, apply to your skin unevenly, and usually leave behind clumps.

Finally, liners and shadows. Liners, both eyes and lips, are easy. They can be kept for up to a year. The trick is to sharpen them a little bit with every use. This keeps any ickies that may find their way to your liners from getting on your eyes/lips. Shadows will change, but it’s a change that often goes unnoticed until the shadow is well past the expiration date. They develop a shiny hard appearance that breeds bacteria and germs. Think you’ve never seen it before?

See that shiny spot in the upper left of this palate? That’s screaming potential eye-infection.

So what are the benefits of spring cleaning your make up bag? By cleaning out all the expired products you highly reduce your risk of eye infections, breakouts, rashes, and allergic reactions. If the threat of adult acne and pink eye doesn’t motivate you, try this. By clearing all those products out you make room for a whole slew of new colors, and spring trends are all about color this year! So go, clean out your makeup bag, make room for new things, and come back again soon to check out the first of my five favorite spring trends!

xoxo,
AC

Welcome!

2011-04-23T17:45:00.001-04:00

Hello, and welcome to Make Up and Kiss! I’m really glad you’re here, and I hope you enjoy reading this blog as much I (hope to) enjoy writing it. I’ve been working with makeup for a long time, and I love it. I love playing with different colors, following the trends, creating new looks, and testing new products. After years of following this little obsession of mine, I’ve built both a rather impressive makeup collection and an extensive knowledge of what products do and don’t worth, which ones are worth the money and which ones aren’t. I’ve decided it’s time to try and make some use of both before one or the other starts to fade away.

I’ll cover makeup looks for both the high and low maintenance, product comparisons and reviews, tips on how to make looks work, and anything else I (or you for that matter) can think of. Feel free to leave comments or questions. I promise I’ll do my best to try and answer them to your satisfaction. Let me know if there’s a product you’ve been dying to try but didn’t want to be the one to break the ice. I’ll give it, or the best version I can find of it, a shot. I’ll even venture into the world of hair and nails on occasion.

Thanks for stopping by. I hope you come back soon and often.
xoxo,